The best ever New Zealand North Island self drive itinerary - Part 2

Well, here we are. The final stop on our New Zealand self drive series, and if I'm honest, I've been putting off writing this one.

There's something about closing out a trip like this that makes you want to hold onto it a little longer. We've taken you through volcanoes and vineyards, alpine crossings and thermal valleys, and now it's time for the last leg. Sulphur pits, hot springs, a very loud noise reveal, and the small matter of a childhood dream finally coming true in a hobbit hole.

This part of the trip took us from Rotorua up through the Coromandel and out to Piha, and it might just be the best five days of the whole road trip.

If you're just joining us, catch up on South Island Part 1, South Island Part 2 and North Island Part 1 first. Then settle in, because this one's a big one.

Day 15 – Lake Taupo to Rotorua

Date: Monday 10th February

Distance: 79.1km

Drive Time: 1 Hr

Camping: Tasman Holiday Park

We started off the day packing up the campsite in Lake Taupo, before beginning the relatively short drive to Rotorua.

We first stopped off at Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland where the walk was fascinating, but the smell was awful. People always talk about the smell of sulphur, and how bad it is … they really are correct. The valley was an interesting view though, with incredibly colours in the water due to the acid and alkaline nature of them. The below photo is not edited in any way.

We then carried on to Rotorua where the smell remained … pungent. We treated ourselves to one of the many hot spring experiences opting for Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa where we went through a 7 step therapeutic journey including:

Te Hihiri, Blessing Stone

Wairere, Waterfall Showers

Te Tukinga, Tongariro Fire & Ice Caves

Te Taiwhanga Matua, Lake View Pools

Te Pae Paru, Geothermal Mud Lounge

Kohu Wai Ariki, Steam Room

Te Ngao, Blessing Stone

The pools were fascinating, in that thermal water has this sticky, almost oily quality to it. The cold plunge was absolutely gorgeous and my favourite step. I would recommend wearing swimwear that you don’t mind potentially ruining as the smell does kind of stay in it for a while.

We dropped our camper off at the campsite we were staying in, before heading into town for a pint at the Pig & Whistle, before eating dinner at Atticus Finch. The food was absolutely fantastic, and would thoroughly recommend eating there.

Day 16 – Rotorua

Date: Tuesday 11th February

Camping: Tasman Holiday Park

Today was a day of Maori experiences, but before we cracked on with that, we stopped off at Lime Cafe for breakfast which was delicious.

We then headed over to Te Puia, a Maori cultural experience and geothermal location. Home to the Maori Arts and Crafts institute, which was a joy to go around and learn about, along with some incredible geysers. The best thing about the geysers here is that they erupt naturally, with no outside force controlling them. They are pretty regular in their eruptions, and it’s really cool!

Now, if you read part 1 of the North Island you will, hopefully, remember I mentioned the god awful noise we heard in the night, before doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Well, all was revealed here. It turns out the little bugger was a Kiwi! Aka, the bird, not a random New Zealander! They had a Kiwi exhibit which showed what they sound like, and goodness me it’s a noise that goes straight through you.

In the evening we headed over to Te Pā Tū, an incredible Maori experience. We learnt about their history, their culture and their way of life. We got to watch a performance of some of the Maori tribe, with the Hakah and various traditional, beautiful Maori songs. Afterwards we had a delicious meal inspired by Maori foods and dishes, with local wine pairing.

Learning more about the Maori way of life and culture felt like such a privilege and I heartily recommend both experiences we did today.

Day 17 – Rotorua to Hahei (via The Shire)

Date: Wednesday 12th February

Distance: 232km

Hike Time: 3 hrs 15 mins

Camping: Hahei Beach Resort

This might have been one of our best days in New Zealand.

We left behind the sulphur-y smells of Rotorua and our first stop today was the stunning Blue Springs. I have never seen water so clear in my life, I’m not even sure these photos will do it justice, but again please just know the below image is not edited in any way. It was truly one of the most tranquil places we have ever been.

Then, it was finally time for Hobbiton. If pictures couldn’t do justice to the Blue Springs, then I am not sure words could ever do justice to what it meant to me to go here. Parked up at the car park, you get bussed over in small groups for your guided tour. The tour guides are exceptionally knowledgeable … I know this is going to be my backup career if Points Well Made doesn’t work out.

Seeing Bag End, the party tree, The Green Dragon inn, was incredible. These places and stories peopled my childhood, and walking the paths they filmed on … I can’t even describe how that felt. This was a dream of mine since I was 8 years old watching The Fellowship of the Ring at a sleepover. Hobbiton wasn’t even a tourist attraction as this point, it was a field. They only rebuilt it for the Hobbit trilogy and then it became open to the public. The cutest thing about the day was that Sam said it was one of his favourite moments in New Zealand because I walked around the whole time with this giant grin on my face, and just apparently looked so happy and at peace there. If that isn't the loveliest compliment, I don't know what is!

We then drove 2.5 hours up to Hahei and this might have been one of the best campsites we stayed in.

Hahei is this lovely little beach village on the Coromandel peninsula, and the campsite is quite literally beach side. Our pitch was about 5 meters from said beach and it was glorious getting to just stroll to the beach at sunset.

The campsite has a great eating area called The Deck. They have bar within this area which does beers, wines, cocktails etc. plus there are two kitchens which do pizzas and burgers. The food was great, the seagulls were feral. We watched one sneak up on a family and honestly haul a whole pizza away from them when they weren't looking. As I said, feral.

Day 18 – Hahei, Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove

Date: Thursday 13th February

Camping: Hahei Beach Resort

First up I woke early to watch the sunrise … it was cloudy! Ah well!

We drove over to Hot Water Beach which took about 10 minutes. Word of advice, check the tides before you go … we went too early so couldn’t fully dig a hole but we did experience the hot water which is flippin boiling! Also, ask the team at reception at the Hahei Beach Resort (if staying there) for a spade so you can dig a hole!

We headed back to the campsite, dropped off the camper and then headed into Hahei for a quick bite to eat at Hahei Beach Cafe. Fantastic sandwiches and great coffee, thoroughly recommend.

Then we hiked over to Cathedral Cove, which took about an hour. There are bits of it which get quite steep so I would recommend wearing trainers rather than sliders or flip flops. Cathedral Cove is pretty iconic, and I say that with zero sense of irony, or Gen-Z mentality about it. There are two reasons why you would recognise this spot. Number 1, Windows on your laptop had it as a screensaver for years. Or, number 2, you watched the second Narnia film, Prince Caspian, as this is where the Pevensie children re-enter Narnia near Cair Paravel.

We then hiked back to the campsite to cook up the delicious fish we had bought the day before, and were mobbed by seagulls. We took it in turns to stand by the BBQ with a big wooden spoon, ready to defend the honour of our fish!

Day 19 – Hahei to Piha

Date: Friday 14th February

Distance: 207km

Drive Time: 3 hrs 7 mins

Camping: Piha Camp

It was an early-ish start to drive off Coromandel and up past Auckland. We stopped off at The Bugger Cafe which had great coffee, lovely people and ample parking for our big old camper.

We then drove the rest of the way to Piha, on the West coast just north of Auckland, almost in one go, bar one stop along the way. Whilst planning our roadtrip we had a number of "non-negotiables" that either both of us, or one of us, wanted to see. Karekare beach was one of those for me, as it was the beach used in Jane Campion's fantastic film The Piano. I love this film. Firstly because it's filmed and set in New Zealand. Secondly because it has Sam Neil in it which is always a good thing. Thirdly, because the music in it, written by the fantastic Michael Nyman, is just beautiful.

There's a scene in the film where the main character's piano has been left on the beach and they go there so she can play it. The piece of music used in the scene is called "The Heart Asks Pleasure First" and if you listened to it you would almost certainly recognise it. It is utterly haunting, and I totally popped my headphones on to listen to this whilst walking along the beach. It holds a particularly special place in my heart as it was the first piece of piano music I learnt outside of my lesson's and graded music exam pieces.

Piha is fascinating as a place, rather like Karekare. It feels so isolated, even though you're only 50 minutes from central Auckland. The black sand beaches stretch long and far, and the sea is a beast. This is surfing territory. Supposedly some of the best surf in NZ. You don't swim here, the rip currents are unpredictable at the best of times and the number of people who have drowned in recent years is not insignificant. Believe me, the sea can look calm as anything but the locals are very well versed in the fact that this is when the sea is at her most dangerous. Instead, walk along the beach and admire Lion Rock, or Te Piha in Māori.

As it was our last evening in New Zealand, and it was Valentines Day, we had a final evening of luxury by not eating in our Camper, and instead headed to the incredible Aryeh restaurant. I am going to do a separate review of this which will be out in the next week or so because it is that good and if you are going in this direction you must go. Just know, that is was the perfect final evening in New Zealand, and when we inevitably go back, we will be booking in for another spectacular meal.

Day 20 - Piha to Auckland Airport

Date: Saturday 15th February

Distance: 46km

Drive Time: 55 minutes

This was a surprisingly bitter-sweet day for both of us. We were up early, had the last remnants of our food for breakfast and grabbed a coffee from Piha Store. When we were there they didn't have alternative milks, in fact I got a "we don't do that stuff here", so maybe take your own!

We drove back towards Auckland and stopped off at a supermarket for the necessary gifts to take home with us for parents and siblings. Our nieces we had bought them little toy kiwis earlier in the trip.

All that was left to do was to drop off the van, and head on over to the airport.

We were both pretty sad to be leaving New Zealand. The trip itself had felt the perfect length but also not long enough at the same time.

The best ever New Zealand North Island self-drive itinerary

And that was that. Twenty days, thousands of kilometres, one camper van that somehow held all our questionable packing choices (me), and more sulphur than either of us ever wants to smell again.

Writing these has been a proper joy. New Zealand gave us more than we expected, not just in scenery but in the small stuff. The quiet moments when it was just Sam and I at various locations. Sitting in our camping chairs with a glass of wine playing Uno or Monopoly Deal. If you're planning your own trip, I hope this series has given you something useful, whether that's a route to follow or just the nudge to book the flights.

If you've got questions, or you want more detail on anything we've covered, drop us a comment or an email. We'd love to help.

Thanks for coming along with us.

Helena

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