Is this the best ever New Zealand South Island self drive itinerary? Part 1

Travelling New Zealand by campervan is one of, if not THE, best way to experience the country, and our South Island road trip was nothing short of epic.

Mountains, glaciers, lakes, Middle-earth locations and plenty of amazing food. Here’s how we did it, day by day, including routes, stops, activities and where we stayed.

It's important to give a teensy bit of context here. We initially flew into Auckland from Doha, and spent a day recovering and exploring the city before getting a super early flight down to Christchurch.

Anyway, on with the show!

A quick disclaimer. This was supposed to be a full itinerary to New Zealand's South Island … however, the post was honestly so long I think you would have been so bored by the end of it. So we are making this a two part-er. We will then do a two part North Island itinerary as we can't miss out the other half of our epic journey!

Day 1 – Christchurch to Edoras (Mount Sunday)

Date: Monday 27th January

Distance: 158 km

Drive Time: 2 hrs 30 mins

Camping: Mt Potts Lodge

We picked up our campervan in Christchurch, excitement levels high, and hit the road straight away, heading south and inland toward Mount Sunday, better known to Lord of the Rings fans as the legendary Edoras. For anyone curious, we rented our van through Kia Ora, and we’ve already written a review on our van . Spoiler: we couldn’t recommend them more (and no, this isn’t an ad!).

First mission: food. There’s a Woolworths conveniently close to the airport, so we stopped in to stock up, loads of groceries and, naturally, a little bit of wine. Be warned, food prices in New Zealand can sting a bit; at the time, the exchange rate was roughly $2 NZD = £1, so the shop came to more than we expected but the exchange rate helped sooth the blow.

The drive to Mount Sunday took around 2 hours and 30 minutes, and it was anything but dull. We only made a quick pit stop to swap drivers before pushing through in one go, we were keen to reach the campsite, set up the van, and get a solid night’s sleep before exploring.

The final stretch of the journey, about 30 km, is along an unsealed road. Just a heads-up: it’s definitely a bit bumpy. Nothing unmanageable, but good to know in advance! Take it slow, roll down the windows, and soak up the wild, untouched scenery around you, it’s absolutely breath-taking.

We pulled in during the late afternoon and parked up near Mt Potts Station, where the campsite took our breath away. When I say it feels like the middle of nowhere, I mean it, in the most magical way. Civilization feels miles away, replaced by peace, mountains, and big skies. The site has everything you need: showers, a bar, a sort of restaurant, and some of the friendliest people you’ll meet.

We settled in with a beer for Sam, an alcoholic lemonade for me, and a BBQ dinner (chef Sam on duty!) before turning in for the night beneath a sky blanketed with stars.

Tip: If your schedule allows, arrive the night before so you can start the Edoras hike bright and early it’s worth it.

Day 2 – Edoras to Hooker Valley Track via Lake Tekapo

Date: Tuesday 28th January

Distance: 291 km

Drive Time: 3 hrs 42 mins

Camping: White Horse Hill Campground

After a quick wash, a strong cup of coffee, and a speedy pack-up of the van, we hit the road again, this time heading straight for Mount Sunday. First things first: there’s a great car park right by the trailhead, complete with a toilet (though, pro tip - bring your own loo roll).

The short hike was fantastic. Standing at the top felt like stepping straight into the Lord of the Rings films, an absolute dream come true for me. It’s still one of my happiest memories from our entire trip. (If you’re a fellow LOTR fanatic, I’ve written a full post all about it, highly recommend giving it a read!)

Fun fact: the signal up there is surprisingly great. Our home insurance even managed to get hold of Sam while we were at the top, which felt surreal given how remote the spot looked!

Eventually, we had to say goodbye to Edoras, yes, I cried, and rolled onward toward Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park.

The drive itself was a highlight, with a few scenic stops along the way: a coffee break in Geraldine, a quick photo op (and a bit of awe) at Lake Tekapo, that turquoise water is unreal, and another stop at Lake Pukaki, where the glacial blue water looked almost too vivid to be real.

That night, we stayed at the White Horse Hill Campground, right at the start of the Hooker Valley Trail. We’d pre-booked, which turned out to be a brilliant move, it gets busy! When we arrived, the sun was blazing, the mountains towered around us, and it felt like nature was putting on a show just for us.

We cooked up a simple pasta dinner, poured a glass of wine, and watched as soft, wispy clouds drifted over the mountain peaks, vanishing as they slipped to the other side.

There’s something so profoundly calming about being surrounded by that raw, untamed beauty. The wildness of New Zealand is unlike anywhere else, it seeps into your soul in the best possible way.

Just a heads-up: at the time of our visit, the campground didn’t have showers, so plan accordingly. But honestly, with views like that, you won’t mind one bit.

Day 3 – Hooker Valley Track to Queenstown

Date: Wednesday 29th January

Distance: 275+ km

Drive Time: 3 hrs 43 mins

Camping: Creeksyde Queenstown Holiday Park

So, funny story, we didn’t actually manage to hike the Hooker Valley Track in the morning because the weather was, quite literally, biblical. And while I’ll admit I have a flair for the dramatic, this time there was no exaggeration. It was absolutely awful.

The night before, we’d chatted with a group of five Americans camping in a tent. They mentioned it might get a bit windy and there’d probably be some rain overnight. We all laughed it off, “how bad could it really be?” Spoiler alert: very bad.

All night long, our fairly large campervan was rocked and shaken by ferocious winds tearing down from the Southern Alps. Rain hammered so hard against the windows that we couldn’t even see across the campsite, let alone the valley. It was chaos.

Needless to say, we abandoned any plans for the hike and joined the mini-exodus of campers leaving that morning. Many had already escaped in the early hours, those in tents had taken refuge in their cars or huddled inside the communal kitchen building for warmth and safety.

On our way out of the valley, we stopped at a viewpoint and looked back toward where we’d come from… and well, this was the view ...

Not to be defeated, we did a quick bit of Googling and found something else to explore on our way down to Queenstown, the Clay Cliffs. They’re just south of Lake Pukaki, and after an admittedly teeth-rattling 20 minutes of gravel road (and a $10 NZD entry fee), we were rewarded with an incredible walk through otherworldly rock formations. Honestly, we’d thoroughly recommend this stop, whether you’re heading north or south along Highway 8.

Further along, we made a quick detour at Kawarau Gorge, the filming location for the Argonath (Pillars of the Kings) scene in The Fellowship of the Ring. The Kawarau River stood in for the River Anduin, though the view doesn’t quite match the movie magic (shock!), it’s still a truly beautiful spot.

Finally, we rolled into Queenstown and parked up at Creeksyde Holiday Park, our home for the next two nights. After setting up camp and grabbing a much-needed shower, we set off to explore.

We wandered all over town, scoping out what to do the next day before ending up at the legendary Fergburger. It’s an absolute Queenstown institution, and now we know why! Don’t be intimidated by the queue, it moves fast for ordering, and you just swing back to pick up your food once it’s ready. Alternatively, grab a seat in the Ferg Bar next door, sip a drink, and wait in style. They’ve got a great range of New Zealand beers and make a mean Spicy Margarita.

Stuffed full of burgers and blissfully content (and still slightly sleep-deprived), we made our way back to the van for some much-needed rest after that wild, stormy night.

Day 4 – Full day in Queenstown

Date: Thursday 30th January

Camping: Creeksyde Queenstown Holiday Park

This day was an absolute Queenstown special. We squeezed so much in that it honestly deserves its own write-up, so yes, a separate "Guide to Queenstown" is definitely coming, because there’s just that much to do here!

We kicked things off with the Shotover Jet, booked for 11:00 a.m. (you’ll want to arrive by 10:15). And wow, what a rush. It was hands down one of the biggest thrills of the entire trip: high-speed turns, heart-stopping canyon squeezes, and a serious adrenaline hit. We cannot recommend it enough! We booked online and made use of the free shuttle from central Queenstown out to the site, which made things super easy. Just make sure you check in at the desk inside The Station Building about 45 minutes before your trip time.

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Right next door, there’s a fantastic independent brewery called Canyon Brewing, which also has a restaurant attached. We popped in for a quick beer before heading back, the perfect post-adrenaline wind-down.

Lunch was a quick (but delicious) pit stop at Ferg Bakery, where we grabbed some sandwiches, absolutely top-notch and highly recommended, before hopping on the Skyline Gondola for an afternoon of pure, giddy fun on the Queenstown Luge.

If you’ve never done it, imagine racing down twisting tracks with mountain views all around, and yes, it’s as addictive as it sounds. We went multiple times because we simply couldn’t stop. Sam took great delight in zooming past me every time, while I was just howling with laughter all the way down for pure joy! My inner child was gleefully enjoying the whole thing!

Next up, we made a dash to the quay for a boat trip around Lake Wakatipu, spending a couple of hours cruising the glittering water and taking in more jaw-dropping scenery, plus, another Lord of the Rings filming location! We went with Million Dollar Cruise, which we found really reasonably priced and totally worth it.

To round off an already incredible day, we treated ourselves to dinner at Fins, a gorgeous seafood restaurant where I had the best oysters and mussels of my life. Honestly, the seafood in New Zealand is on another level, fresh, flavourful, and unforgettable. We ended things in The Lodge Bar, owned and run by Rodd & Gunn (a New Zealand country clothing brand) with a couple of glasses of gorgeous New Zealand wine.

Day 5 – Queenstown to Wanaka, the Blue Pools and Haast

Date: Friday 31st January

Distance: 140 km total

Drive Time: 2 hrs+

Camping: Haast River Motels & Holiday Park

Leaving Queenstown this morning came with a twinge of sadness, this town has such a vibrant, infectious energy, and every moment there had been pure joy. I would go so far as to say it was our favourite town we visited, and both of said we could go back and explore that area for a further three weeks.

We set off early, heading first to Arrowtown for breakfast. It’s a cute little place, and we found a lovely café called Kahwah Café where the potato dish was incredible (honestly, worth the stop for that alone). After a leisurely wander through the streets, it was time to hit the road for a big day of driving.

Next stop: Wanaka, home of the famous “That Wanaka Tree.” We took the route via Cromwell instead of Cardrona, since we weren't permitted to use this road with our campervan. It only added about 10–15 minutes to the journey, so no big deal. Once in Wanaka, we stretched our legs, grabbed a coffee and some food, and soaked in the laid-back lakeside vibe.

Now, let’s talk about That Tree. It’s absolutely worth seeing, though be prepared, there will be lots of tourists. If you’re keen on a great photo, here’s what worked for us:

• Get to the front of the crowd.

• Wait patiently for a gap between posers.

• Drop to your knees, that’s genuinely the best angle.

• Then snap away!

It’s a total cliché, but it’s one of those New Zealand must-dos you can’t skip.

From Wanaka, we drove another hour (about 70 km) to the Blue Pools. When we went, the trail was closed for repairs, but we’d read online that it was still partly accessible, so we decided to check it out. We threw on swimwear and water shoes, made our way along the track, and even waded through the water to get near the pools.

The water was crystal clear, and having a little wild swim there turned out to be one of the most fun, spontaneous moments of the trip. The best news? The bridge repairs are now complete, so if you’re planning to go, you’ll have easy access to the full trail!

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  Swimming in the Blue Pools

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  Diving into the deep

The final leg of the day took us from the Blue Pools to Haast, roughly an hour’s drive (69.5 km), though the last half is a series of twisty downhill roads, which, I’ll admit, aren’t my favourite! So thank you to Sam for doing that final bit of driving!

We checked in at Haast River Motels & Holiday Park, and despite all the online warnings about sandflies, we didn’t see a single one! After a long, hot shower, we fired up the BBQ for a delicious lamb and rosemary sausage pasta, opened a chilled bottle of New Zealand Riesling, and toasted to another incredible day on the road. Then it was time to crawl into bed, happily exhausted and ready for some iconic glacier action tomorrow!

The ultimate New Zealand South Island self drive itinerary part 1

Well, that is part 1 of the South Island itinerary complete. Tune in next week as the adventure continues.

Helena

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